Seattle to Ranger Creek Airport
8/30/2024
We left Seattle at 3pm, having made up our minds about which entrance we’d start the Northern Loop. We contemplated starting from the Carbon River Ranger Station since there would be more dispersed camping. However, the road from the ranger station to the nearest front country campsite, Ipsut, was washed out. As a result we’d need to hike an additional five miles just to get to the start of the Northern Loop.
We eventually made out way to silver Springs campsite only to find out the entire campsite had been reserved by a bunch of no-showers. The ranger kindly directed us to the Ranger Creek State Airport down the road. It was indeed an airport that also happened to have a number of campsites. We found a campsite that wasn’t too far from the White River. As we set up camp, there was literally small aircraft taking off not more than 100 feet from camp.
While setting up camp, we also noticed an obnoxious generator that someone was running on the next campsite over. After asking the owner about whether the generator would be shut we realized that our views of camping were diametrically opposed. The owner of the generator carried with him an camper trailer containing several bedrooms and a tv. He also brought turf to line the outside of the camper trailer, so that the barbeque range wouldn’t need to stand on the ground outside. All the additional possessions were responsibilities and resulted in an incredible amount of burden. After speaking with the owner, I realized the he was kind and meant well. However, I realized that we had diametrically opposing views what camping is all about.
Getting in White River before mom’s curry and rice, with cilantro!
Ranger Creek to Fire Creek
8/31/2024
We left Ranger campground and were first in line at the White River Ranger Station by 6:30am. However, even being first into the station, we still weren’t able to secure another campsite. As we were leaving, resolved to accept a single night in the backcountry, Johannes turned to ask the ranger about ‘Backcountry Zones’. She straightened and her eyes lit up as if Johannes had muttered a secret code.
She then pulled out a map that outlined a number of Backcountry Zones throughout the park. There happened to be a zone right next to Mystic Camp, the camp we had been hoping to get a walkup permit for. The Backcountry Zone allowed us to camp outside of any campsite, as long as we were at least a 1/4 mile from the trail. Johannes had unlocked a cheat code and were able to continue with our plan to complete the Northern Loop.
We reached Sunrise and were on the trail by 9:30am, on our way to the Fire Creek Campground. On the way down the valley, I was kicking myself for bringing my 60 degree sleeping bag again. That sleeping bag has literally never kept me warm enough, but I’m always optimistic that this will be the trek were it’ll be warm enough at night that I can save the extra .5 oz and pack light. We stopped for water at Barkley Creek, about 3 miles from Fire Creek, because the ranger warned us that there wouldn’t be water at our campsite.
We reached Fire Creek camp around 2pm, and had time to nap and wash in the small stream before cooking. Tonight it’s fried rice, made with instant brown rice with a packet of fried rice seasoning. As an appetizer we had a bowl of Miso soup. We went to our respective tents and didn’t hear from any other groups until 9pm.
Fire Creek to Moraine Park (Backountry Zone)
9/1/2024
We woke in the morning to an almost completely empty campground. The previous night only brought two other groups later into the evening, so we almost had the entire campground to ourselves. Figures since Fire Creek wasn’t next to any large rivers and didn’t have any sweeping views of mountain valleys. It was a modest camp tucked away in the forest, invisible from any airplanes- simply part of the enormous alpine forest. I can see why it’s a relatively neglected camp, but I saw a lot of charm in the campsite.
With my leggings and sleeping bag liner, I was almost too hot throughout the night. We packed up, drank coffee and were back on the trail by 8:00am. It was going to be a long day, since the Moraine Park Backcountry Zone was about 12 miles away with about 5k feet of gain.
At the valley below the Fire Creek campsite, I hopped into Upper Van Horn Falls. From there we hiked until reaching James Lake. At the lake, we lost Johannes. After looking around. I saw a naked figure on the other side of the lake getting out of the water. On the way out, we munched on huckleberries. I learned from Lesley that on the East Coast, they don’t call them Huckleberries, they call them Blueberries. The Huckleberries here apparently aren’t huckleberries at all. They’re actually in the genus of the Blueberry. The temp had climbed to 75 degrees. With a low of 54 the night before, it was indeed a temperate and pleasant time to be in the mountains.
Van Horn Falls. Heavy water and a quick brain freeze!
We climbed to Windy Pass, watching a small bear climb on the other side of the valley. We noticed a large burned area on the hill above us as we ascended. At an unnamed pond on top of the pass, Johannes and I jumped in after having lunch. The water was a perfect temperature.
We reached the base of the valley around 3:30pm. We still had at least 4 miles, and at least 2k ft gain until we reached the Moraine. As we ascended the valley, we ran into a trail runner a couple of times. His itinerary ended up being one, single run around the mountain, without rest. He said he’d run about 20 100 milers previously. He said he was really tired that day, and that he didn’t know if he could make it. He didn’t have more than a small backpack, and we couldn’t figure out what he’d do if he had to bivvy. Maybe sneak into someones tent? Nonetheless, he had 50 more miles. Meanwhile, we were struggling to complete the last mile ahead of us.
Johannes as we climbed next to the Winthrop Glacier to the Moriane.
We reached the Moraine and veered off trail. By this point, it was dusk and my mom was getting frustrated that we were venturing so far into the woods. It was the rule though, and eventually we found a meadow next to Dick Creek. We were alarmed at how much fresh bear scat there was in our new campsite. It was too late to move though and we had resolved to let the night unfold and reveal any woodland friends.
Our new campsite on ‘t‘The Moraine‘.
“The Moraine” to Sunrise
9/2/2024
Everyone woke up in the middle of the night to the sound of rain drops hitting tent netting. I said, “Oh Shit” and everyone quickly got out to silently put on rainflies. Without saying anything, everyone was quickly back in their tents fast asleep again.
Throughout the night, there were sounds of the Winthrop Glacier groaning and cracking in the background. There were also explosions coming off the mountain where rock and ice were being shaved off of the slopes.
When we woke in the morning, we were pleased to find our bearcan undisturbed and hanging trash bag undisrupted. We left shortly after enjoying breakfast and filling up at the nearby stream before navigating back to the trail.
We ascended the rest of the trail until we reached Mystic lake. The morning was about 70 degrees and we saw striking views of Liberty Ridge as we cleared the ridge and walked the gentle slope to the lake. We crossed the first ranger we saw on the trip. She asked for our permit. We chatted a little about the bears, and she told us that the Moraine Park was one of the most popular places for the bears to gather. She also mentioned that the hill side that had burned above us was due to a hire about a decade ago. She said that the forest has a slower return interval than forests at lower elevations. As a result, the hillsides have less vegetation and are more prone to avalanches. The avalanches then clear down the dead trees. She also mentioned that a Ranger covered the Ranger cabin at James Lake with tin foil when the forest fire swept through Red Stone Mountain. The tin foil apparently kept the cabin from burning down.
Can’t say we didn’t try. This is after about 4 takes of trying to get a photo with the Moutain using the timer.
As I walked to the lake, I reflected on the glaciers we walked by earlier. Those glaciers are indomitable, yet dynamic to the changes in the environment around them. They move with the landscape and melt when the temperature rises. They’re affected by changes around them, but they continue on their natural path no matter what. The nature of these things!
We ascended out of the woods and onto the ridge before Skyscraper Mountain. Johannes and I took a detour up to the Skyscraper peak and enjoyed the striking views of Mt. Rainier and the valley below. It was a short walk back to Sunrise, and we enjoyed the sunset over a couple of Coronas before driving down into the clouds which shrouded the valley below.
The view from the ridge line leading up to Skyscrapper Peak.
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